Forum Replies Created
- October 6, 2012 at 9:05 pm #12681
I have good results using my primer removal screen to “rough” up the surface of a new SS former as well as using “Glass Separator” primer instead of my normal “Primo Primer”. I have never had to pre-fire using this method.May 2, 2011 at 5:22 pm #12036
I have a first generation microwave kiln from way back and the actual fusing surface is only 3″. I tired of it quickly because it was a lot of time and work for one piece of glass.May 2, 2011 at 5:19 pm #12063
Wouldn’t it be rather frustrating and a waste of time to try fusing scrap glass from unknown sources because of the compatability? Unless you know exactly what you’re getting, I would think you would have more fails and truly learn nothing. Some of the glass sites do have scrap lots for sale…Slumpys does for sure, in their “Odd Cuts”. At least you know what COE you’re getting.
Just my opinion.April 6, 2011 at 5:32 pm #12004
Just wanted to thank you for this tutorial. As a new fuser, I was following a standard fusing schedule, which equated to almost 5-6 hours of fusing time from start to final cool down (at which time I would turn the kiln off and could walk away. I don’t have a programmable kiln, so I’m learning alot about schedules). This last time, I tried your condensed fusing schedule for jewelry pieces and was amazed at the success! Everything turned out well, no problems. In fact, the kiln at full fuse got away from me just slightly, so next time, it will even be cut down by a little more time (I feel the pieces are just slightly overfused, but thats my opinion.) Total time until I could turn off and walk away: 4 hours. Gotta love it!
Thanks so much for posting this here and on your site!