Stephen Richard

Now you have experience to show that what is slow for other glass is not so for pot melts.  I suggest slower rise,; maybe half the one you used.  10mm is more than 3 layers thick, so slow rises are needed and even more caution on glass subjected to high temperatures
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.gl…[Read more]

Yes you will need a mould containing flint, about 50/50
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

Check withe glass manufacturer’s site. There will be guidance there
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

Not necessary at all
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

Which glass? Bullseye? Uroroboros? Other? Go to the manufacturer’s site for guidance.
shelf should be supported above the floor. Firing small pieces will be fast enough that the intricacies of multiple shelves does not need to be dealt with
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

Should be on their website.
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

This is not an area where you want to skimp. Yes you can make some, but the effort really is not worth it. Choose a separator that has the finest grains for the smoothest surface
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

How about trying powder applied through/over a stencil?
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

Yes cover the pipe with fibre paper – 0.5 mm at least. No point batt wash, as the steel will spall so badly. You need to advance in temperature slowly as the pipe drains the heat from the glass where it rests.
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

Most successful encasing of metal requires thin flexibl metals. So SS will not work directly. Instead cut fibre paper of the thickness and shape of the inserted part of he handle and after firing work the fibre out, then glue the handle in.
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

Kiln with a controller every time.contact the manufacturer on suitability of link for glass – probably intended for ceramics
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

I would fire hotter for a shorter time – maybe 50°F for 20′. I would also go afap to the anneal soak.
However, there is a high possibility of devitrification on second and subsequent firings of float.
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

Yes you can use glazed ceramics as moulds.  But you do have to prepare them for use by removing or roughening the glaze enough to accept shelf primer as a separator between the ceramic and the glass.  Ensure there is a draft (no vertical sides).  I have a note on found moulds at…[Read more]

Some things that I can think of off hand that cause bubbles:
single layers
layup that is heavy on the egdes
no way out for the air
shelves with a dip
bubble squeeze at the wrong temperature – too low or high
If you give us some more information on configuration of kiln and of glass layup, schedules and all those other variables, we might be able…[Read more]

Long discussion on another board, I won’t trouble you with.  It is compatibility you are looking for rather than any coefficient of expansion.  Bullseye, Uroroboeros and Spectrum96 are all good tested compatible glasses.  Each has their supporters.  Find a good supplier near you and use what they carry.  By sticking with one manufacturer’s fusi…[Read more]

This will give you the information you need.
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/annealing-thick-slabs.html
You don’t need to worry much about the heat up as the glass is all in pieces.  Choose the schedule for one up from the diameter of your tube.
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.bl…[Read more]

I have used two products.  One is ciment fondu – a high temperture cement that is mixed with water and fired.  The mould needs to be wet before applyng the ciment fondu.
The other product has been more durable.  Its trade name is Sair Set.  It seems to be a resin of some sort.  Apply it to the two parts of the join and wipe off the excess imme…[Read more]

But it is possible with a lot of work.  You have to abrade the unwanted pieces from the surface of the piece.  I have sandblasted off something that I absolutly had to save.
Mainly, it it just isn’t worth the effort, especially on a delicate tack fused piece.  Make another is my recommendation.
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blo…[Read more]

http://glasstips.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/aperture-drops-length-of-drop.html
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/