Forum Replies Created
- March 26, 2011 at 3:59 am #11986
OK, my name is not Kaiser…but my medical insurance is!!
Seriously, I wanted to suggest you check out bullseye’s website under “Education” (even if you plan to use System 96 glass, there’s still a ton of useful information here). Their Tipsheet #1 on Kilncarving will give you lots of information on the types of fiber paper and how to use them.March 26, 2011 at 3:49 am #12001
What Stephen said. Also, remember youare starting at room tepmerature, note zero, so it will probably take you a little less than an hour on your first ramp (unless it’s really cold where your kiln is.)
To your firing record sheet, add “start time” and “finish time” and you will soon have a very good idea of how long it takes to run a particular porgram…all part of getting to know your kiln.March 26, 2011 at 3:43 am #12011
Wire-brush or use wet-dry sandpaper to remove the oxide. You can then tumble it with stainless steel shot to polish and work-harden it.April 3, 2009 at 10:49 pm #11226
In addition to tracing black, I’ve also used Fusemaster high-fire enamel and Glassline paints. I’ve rubber-stamped with them, but see no reason why they wouldn’t also work with a pen. The tracing black and enamels can also be mixed with lavender or squeegee oil, as well as clove oil. Vent your kiln when firing.
To prevent smearing of oil-mixed paints, either let dry thoroughly, or pre-fire the painted pieces to about 1200F before assembling your piece for fusing.March 29, 2009 at 7:12 am #11208
Check out Instar Enterprises.
They have a great selection and you can buy the decals individually. The low-fire/glass decals are meant to be used on already-fused glass; the ceramic decals can be used in the fusing process. I haven’t tried clear-capping their gold decals, but they turn out beatifully.