Forum Replies Created
- November 6, 2008 at 2:14 pm #10945
I have used nichrome wire to sucessfully hold plaster molds together.
Plaster is usually one use.
I found that out the hard way.
More permanent molds are made from clay.
EdOctober 22, 2008 at 2:23 pm #10908
Having just finished a pendant fixture – with a team of interior designers –
for the Keep Austin Bright Competition, I have a few ideas.
You need to figure our how to shield the bulb or luminaire
with a form or shape that can be slumped.
Dangles are easy, as you can embed wires
or create attachment holes with fiber board or fiber paper or
drill holes for mechanical attachments.
Chandeliers are usually open structures
so a metal support framework is usually necessary for spread.
You also need to figure a way to hide the wires and maybe also the support structure.
A single point suspension attachment to the ceiling is needed.
I would suggest drawing up your ideas,
build some samples to be sure that you
know what you want to do will work and then give it a try.
EdSeptember 19, 2008 at 7:02 pm #10702
Thought #1 –
If you cut out a piece of irid and glue it to a piece of opalescent and fire it.
Then paint glue over the irid and let it dry completly, maybe even 2 coats.
Then sandblast the opalescent. Then soak off the glue. The irid looks great in contrast to the sandblasted opal. Then you can slump it.
Thought #2 – Also you can glue white shelf paper (self adhesive) over a piece of irid.
Draw a design and cut it out removing hte pieces where you do not want the irid to show. Then sandblast off the irid that is not covered up with the contact paper
Strip off the contact paper that is cover ing up the irid to expose the design. Then slump.
EdSeptember 18, 2008 at 6:53 pm #10700
I love the stuff.
Just about everything I do has some irid in it
Try it over opalescent with a glue or sandblast resist over the irid and
fuze together and you can get some great effects.
One can use it in mosaics,
On strip bowls it can cause problems, as
you have to watch lining it up face to face as it will not bond.
On drop rings it does not hold together as well as non-irid.
EdSeptember 16, 2008 at 2:52 pm #10827
Paul is correct.
One does not have to use a drill press but it is a lot easier and
has better results and less chance of cracking the piece
EdSeptember 15, 2008 at 1:54 pm #10823
Klock Kit has a catalog with any kind of mechanism and hands you might want.
Order sonething and they will keep sending the catalog for years.
A diamond coring bit (they come in a vatiety of sizes), a ring of puddy filled with water, a drill press, and a lot of patience will driill a hole in the center of a clock face.
Watch the distance between drill press post and center of work.September 5, 2008 at 1:09 pm #10552
I think you did really well for a first piece, because of its size and the number of techniques you used to create it. I see many more fantastic pieces in your future.