Ed Richburg

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    Ed Richburg

    I have used nichrome wire to sucessfully hold plaster molds together.

    Plaster is usually one use.

    I found that out the hard way.

    More permanent molds are made from clay.



    Ed Richburg

    Having just finished a pendant fixture – with a team of interior designers –

    for the Keep Austin Bright Competition, I have a few ideas.

    You need to figure our how to shield the bulb or luminaire

    with a form or shape that can be slumped.

    Dangles are easy, as you can embed wires

    or create attachment holes with fiber board or fiber paper or

    drill holes for mechanical attachments.

    Chandeliers are usually open structures

    so a metal support framework is usually necessary for spread.

    You also need to figure a way to hide the wires and maybe also the support structure.

    A single point suspension attachment to the ceiling is needed.

    I would suggest drawing up your ideas,

    build some samples to be sure that you

    know what you want to do will work and then give it a try.







    Ed Richburg

    Thought #1 –

    If you cut out a piece of irid and glue it to a piece of opalescent and fire it.

    Then paint glue over the irid and let it dry completly, maybe even 2 coats.

    Then sandblast the opalescent. Then soak off the glue. The irid looks great in contrast to the sandblasted opal. Then you can slump it.

    Thought #2 – Also you can glue white shelf paper (self adhesive) over a piece of irid.

    Draw a design and cut it out removing hte pieces where you do not want the irid to show. Then sandblast off the irid that is not covered up with the contact paper

    Strip off the contact paper that is cover ing up the irid to expose the design. Then slump.


    Ed Richburg

    I love the stuff.

    Just about everything I do has some irid in it

    Try it over opalescent with a glue or sandblast resist over the irid and

    fuze together and you can get some great effects.

    One can use it in mosaics,

    On strip bowls it can cause problems, as

    you have to watch lining it up face to face as it will not bond.

    On drop rings it does not hold together as well as non-irid.




    Ed Richburg

    Paul is correct.

    One does not have to use a drill press but it is a lot easier and

    has better results and less chance of cracking the piece

    than freehanding.



    Ed Richburg

    Klock Kit has a catalog with any kind of mechanism  and hands you might want.

    Order sonething and they will keep sending the catalog for years.

    A diamond coring bit (they come in a vatiety of sizes), a ring of puddy filled with water, a drill press, and a lot of patience will driill a hole in the center of a clock face.

    Watch the distance between drill press post and center of work.


    Ed Richburg

    I think you did really well for a first piece, because of its size and the number of techniques you used to create it. I see many more fantastic pieces in your future.


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