Wine Bottle Slump?
- January 3, 2009 at 6:59 pm #9288hardingaggiesParticipant
I received a ‘big girl’ kiln for Christmas and I’m working on my learning curve using a big one (as opposed to my little table top) with a rampmaster. I thought doing a wine bottle slump might be a good way to try things out. That way, if I screw things up it shouldn’t be too traumatic! Does anyone have any suggestions and/or a schedule you may have used with good results you are willing to share?
WendyJanuary 4, 2009 at 3:54 pm #11060rgilbertParticipant
You might try a web search, or http://www.warmtips.com/20050811.htm. Enjoy your experimenting.January 4, 2009 at 4:06 pm #11061
Take it up to slumping temperature. You probably will have to watch, as bottle glass requires higher temperatures than fusing glass. I have done it at about 720C.
You do need to be careful about annealing though. At the base, the glass may be 13mm thick when slumped. So your annealing needs to begin about 80-100C below the slump temperature with a soak for about an hour, followed by a slow cool, say abour 30C/hr to about 400C and then 100C to room temp.
SteveJanuary 4, 2009 at 7:24 pm #11062hardingaggiesParticipant
Thanks! That’s just the kind of info I was looking for. I figured there had to be a few issues and I had wondered about the varying thicknesses.
WendyJanuary 5, 2009 at 3:00 pm #11063
in my Fuse It book I have a chapter “Recycle It” – were you will find some things to do with bottle glass. I ususally fire bottles with my other full fuse firings and never had a problem.
The firing schedule I’ve been using in the past 10 years is
ramp up 10/min – 600 per hour to 1000 hold for 10 min
ramp fast to 1450 – hold for 10 min
ramp down fast to 960 and hold for 1 hr
petra kaiser – http://www.kaiserlee.comJanuary 5, 2009 at 8:05 pm #11064
If all you are doing is slumping, 787C seems high.
Also 515C seems low for an annealing soak, since most bottle glass behaves pretty much like float.
I presume you do more than just switch off after the hour at annealing soak. Depending on how thick the piece is I would consider 80C/hr to about 400C to do the annealing, before cooling faster.
Still, it is only a bottle.
SteveJanuary 5, 2009 at 8:44 pm #11065
Since it is only a bottle, I don’t bather and so far none of my bottles broke and they are looking as all the other bottles you see out there, except mine have a handle. Those pretty vodka bottles even keep their designs. The bottles are only a place filler in my kiln.
petra kaiser – http://www.kaiserlee.comJanuary 19, 2009 at 7:09 am #11066clazanichParticipant
I found all the suggested high end temps too high for my kiln. The first one I did the bottles were VERY flat. The last bottle slump I did I stopped it at 1310 as the bottoms were already looking too flat – they actually turned out perfectly. So the lesson I found is – every kiln is different – monitor the firing to see when it is actually done.October 14, 2010 at 2:36 pm #11070bbetty2817Participant
I still do not understand exactly what is meant by the term “ramp down” AFAP to annealing temp. To crash cool is the only way I see that “AFAP” is possible. Somebody please explain what I’m missing.October 15, 2010 at 5:58 pm #11071November 11, 2010 at 1:20 pm #11067RoseanneParticipant
What happens if I try slumping bottles without first removing their labels? Also, suppose I use my regular mold slump program and just add a bottle as a place-filler?November 11, 2010 at 1:54 pm #11068November 11, 2010 at 2:07 pm #11069RoseanneParticipant
Oh, yes, I see. Do you have suggestions about removing the labels easily? Also, you mentioned using the bottles as place-fillers in your kiln. If I use my regular mold-slumping program to slump molds, can I just place a bottle in there along with the molds and expect good results?
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