Tips for creating little vases & refiring small paperweights

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  • #9354
    Tosca
    Participant

    Hi,

    I want to drape over a small mold that looks like a glass either in stainless steel or ceramic.  A friend is going to make a ceramic one for me.  This would be about 7″ tall so I need to know the circumference of glass I would need to make a drape.  Can this also be done with a square with the corners rounded off.  I would probably use a colour with a clear to cover if that is necessary.  I am waiting patiently for my friend to do another firing which may not be until January now.  Are these kind of vases popular in America?  I live in Queensland, Australia.  I would appreciate any comments that could help.  I have been doing dichroic pendants & cast some paperweights (heart

    shaped) with Gaffer broken glass from a glassblower friend.  They look good but had to refire for

    a gloss on the right side.  I used stilt pins but they were not big enough so eventually my son recommended ball bearings.  Of course the glass took them up but the top was now very glossy.

    Any better ideas for doing this at all? Those who saw them loved them.  The glass has colours in

    with swirls etc. broken either in the kiln or dropped off the punty.

    Look forward to your comments.   Happy creating Tosca

     

     

     

    I

    #11458
    petra kaiser
    Participant

    Hi Tosca,

    be careful when draping over clay – I have had problems with expansion and contraction. The glass cracked coming down since the clay contracted at a slower rate. You can prevent that by placing a prefired 1/8″ thick fiber paper over your drape mold it acts as a buffer. We use Kaiser Lee Board for our drape molds with great success.

    Whenever we have a drape mold we cut a piece of newspaper and fold it over the mold. Is it to big we cut it smaller is it to small we try with a bigger one. The right piece is than used as a pattern. Uneven shapes can drape into beautiful shapes as well.

    have fun

    petra

    petra kaiser – http://www.kaiserlee.com – Students Blog: http://www.myglassart.or

    #11459
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Keep in mind that the glass not only folds, it stretches. A square piece of glass with a diagonal length of exactly (2X height + bottom diameter) will likely hit the kiln shelf.



    Paul
    FusedGlass.Org
    Helios Kiln Glass Studio
    PaulTarlow.com

     

    #11460
    Patertiska
    Participant

    Hi Tosca

    I have been experimenting with vases the last few months with fun results.  My first attempts were with tomato juice cans, a little fibre paper over the top & around the sides & voila … brilliant,,,, except !!! the ring at the base of the can was stuck in the glass.  Fortunately my brother came to the rescue with “brickies acid” a 10% solution of hydrchloric acid used to wash messed up mortar from new brick walls.  Absoutely brilliant – dissolved the tin enought to remove it.  So, 10 – 12″ glass squares on an 850ml juice tin. 

    Then a friend gave me a ‘real’ glass fuserslumper’s vase mould, unfortunately only 5″ long and of course I wanted taller vases … so, it comes with a warning: When the glass stretches, as it goes past the bottom of the mould, which I prop up on kiln furniture to enhance the length, the glass will fold inunder.  So approx 10″ squares.

    But, keep a close eye on the piece when it is stretching to ensure it doesn’t curl in, else you will have the same problem I have …because of the “inward curling” my current piece will now be broken to relased the mould !  Dissapointing, but it’s such fun experimenting.

    If using a Stainless Steel mould :You need to heat the mould to apply kiln wash – darn frustrating, I did it in my regular oven which gets to 250C, just kept sliding the shelf out, applying, reheating, reapplying etc until it was all covered.

    Best wishes with your endeavours from sunny Perth  39.4C today, and yes, the kiln was still firing.

    Patertiska & Pepper

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