Thermal Shock Question

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  • #9631
    Juno123
    Participant

    I read your tutorial about thermal shock and was surprised to learn about using the lid element in my kiln.  When I bought the kiln I asked when I should use this and didn’t get a good answer, so I’ve never used it…after reading your article I will use it all the time.  But I have one question…should I also use the lid element when slumping a piece.  I’m asking this because you state that the benefit of the lid element is that the glass is all the same distance from the heating element and that would not be the case when the piece is slumping.  Thanks

    #12040
    Stephen Richard
    Participant

    Yes use the top elements when slumping.  To get the glass to the temperature where the glass will begin to bend, you need even temperature across the glass, so top elements will help there.  The time the glass spends at different distances from the top elements is minor in relation to the whole heat up.

    Stephen Richard

    blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

    #12041
    katmontminy
    Participant

    I was under the impression that you use the top element of your kiln for glass and the side element for pottery or PMC. Can you use the side elements? I never have but am curios how it turns out. I have only done jewelry so far and was wondering if the side elements would fire any differently….. any thoughts

     

     

    #12042
    Juno123
    Participant

    No, it doesn’t fire differently and you are correct that the top element should be used for glass, not the side elements, as I recently learned from this site.  I always used the side elements with my glass projects and never had problems with thermal shock…but apparently side elements can cause that problem.  Stick with the lid element for glass.

    #12043
    BarbWaggs
    Participant

    We have a studio with 200 members and run 7 kilns daily. One kiln, Olympic GF12E, we use the lid elements at 6 out of 10 temp. Our kiln team has been having a discussion on whether we should be running the lid at full power. When we try the pieces get over fired pieces at top full fuse temp 1460. We did have one piece 24 x 24 double layer with decorative layer on a contour fuse 1400 crack, but not sure why.  We have about a 95% success rate on our firings so no immediate concerns. Hoping to hear from others who might use this commercial grade kiln and your thoughts.


     

    Barb

    #12044
    BarbWaggs
    Participant

    We have a studio with 200 members and run 7 kilns daily. One kiln, Olympic GF12E, we use the lid elements at 6 out of 10 temp. Our kiln team has been having a discussion on whether we should be running the lid at full power. When we try the pieces get over fired pieces at top full fuse temp 1460. We did have one piece 24 x 24 double layer with decorative layer on a contour fuse 1400 crack, but not sure why.  We have about a 95% success rate on our firings so no immediate concerns. Hoping to hear from others who might use this commercial grade kiln and your thoughts.


     

    Barb

    #12045
    BarbWaggs
    Participant

    We have a studio with 200 members and run 7 kilns daily. One kiln, Olympic GF12E, we use the lid elements at 6 out of 10 temp. Our kiln team has been having a discussion on whether we should be running the lid at full power. When we try the pieces get over fired pieces at top full fuse temp 1460. We did have one piece 24 x 24 double layer with decorative layer on a contour fuse 1400 crack, but not sure why.  We have about a 95% success rate on our firings so no immediate concerns. Hoping to hear from others who might use this commercial grade kiln and your thoughts.


     

    Barb

    #12046
    BarbWaggs
    Participant

    We have a studio with 200 members and run 7 kilns daily. One kiln, Olympic GF12E, we use the lid elements at 6 out of 10 temp. Our kiln team has been having a discussion on whether we should be running the lid at full power. When we try the pieces get over fired pieces at top full fuse temp 1460. We did have one piece 24 x 24 double layer with decorative layer on a contour fuse 1400 crack, but not sure why.  We have about a 95% success rate on our firings so no immediate concerns. Hoping to hear from others who might use this commercial grade kiln and your thoughts.


     

    Barb

    #12047
    BarbWaggs
    Participant

    We have a studio with 200 members and run 7 kilns daily. One kiln, Olympic GF12E, we use the lid elements at 6 out of 10 temp. Our kiln team has been having a discussion on whether we should be running the lid at full power. When we try the pieces get over fired pieces at top full fuse temp 1460. We did have one piece 24 x 24 double layer with decorative layer on a contour fuse 1400 crack, but not sure why.  We have about a 95% success rate on our firings so no immediate concerns. Hoping to hear from others who might use this commercial grade kiln and your thoughts.


     

    Barb

    #12048
    BarbWaggs
    Participant

    We have a studio with 200 members and run 7 kilns daily. One kiln, Olympic GF12E, we use the lid elements at 6 out of 10 temp. Our kiln team has been having a discussion on whether we should be running the lid at full power. When we try the pieces get over fired pieces at top full fuse temp 1460. We did have one piece 24 x 24 double layer with decorative layer on a contour fuse 1400 crack, but not sure why.  We have about a 95% success rate on our firings so no immediate concerns. Hoping to hear from others who might use this commercial grade kiln and your thoughts.


     

    Barb

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