slumping molds
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- This topic has 3 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 1 month ago by
Stephen Richard.
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- December 27, 2012 at 11:22 pm #9917
islandstudios
ParticipantIs it possible to use thinfire shelf paper on a mold instead of kiln wash?
December 28, 2012 at 4:19 am #12781marV
ParticipantI was told that it was possible after coating drape mold with kiln wash to put a piece of thinfire paper under a circular piece of glass that is to be draped over the mold. This is supposed to ensure that the glass drapes without sticking. Has anyone done this or heard of doing it?
December 28, 2012 at 5:18 am #12782tracy
ParticipantmarV – that is exactly how I set up a drape in my kiln. My kiln is not very deep, so I’m not sure how the process works on taller drapes.
December 28, 2012 at 11:01 am #12783Stephen Richard
ParticipantIt is important to put a separator on the mould -normally kiln wash – before using it. Once coated, ity will not need to be re-coated unless the surface is damaged, scratched, etc for a very long time. If the kiln wash seems to be rough you can smooth it in various ways as noted in this tip:
http://glasstips.blogspot.co.uk/2009/08/applying-kiln-wash.html
The advantage of kiln wash is that it does not cost much and lasts a long time. The thinfire or similar is a one-time-use product.
The binder in the thnifire burns away during the heat up and allows the now unbound separator to drift down to the mould before the glass begins to conform to the mould. In that way it is very similar to a fine dusting of kiln wash powder over the mould surface before firing.
In short, I don’t see the point of using Thinfire or similar during most slumps (I can see that there are rare occasions where this method would be advisable). You have to kiln wash the mould anyway. KIln wash is cheap and long lasting.
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/
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