Newbie having lots of trouble
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trevarthan.
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- October 25, 2014 at 8:28 pm #10212
T.Fiore
ParticipantI’m using a paragon bluebird XL bead annealing kiln, I previously did (lampworking), and had a microwave kiln. I’ve had a few disasters due to apparently not using enough hi-temp 1800 spray, resulting in shattered glass and 2 ruined molds. I’m using system 96 glass.
My my most recent project was a 12″ x 6″ contour fuse (slumped it the first time, not enough definition), onto a koi texture tile. Then I painted the relief underneath with mica powders and intended to fuse another clear piece onto the back to seal in the paint and slump into a curved sushi dish. I had to do quite a bit of grinding on the new piece, as the corners of the textured piece had pulled in quite a bit.
I ran a system 96 contour fuse program, a bit concerned I would lose too much definition in my texture plate, but wanted the two pieces to be smoothly fused with no sharp corners.
What came out of the kiln was hideous. It is now an 8.5″ x 5.75″ lumpy misshapen rectangle. The koi are distorted, there’s tons of air bubbles, there’s a smooth dent in the bottom where it was against the mold, and the glass is cloudy (devitrification?), it’s thick and small and just awful.
where have I gone so wrong?…
October 28, 2014 at 7:15 am #13442Stephen Richard
ParticipantGet a book like Brad Walkers’s Contemporary Warm Glass http://www.warmglass.com/cfg/
or look at his on line tutorials http://www.warmglass.com/tutorial
Or look at the “Learn” section on this site
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/
October 29, 2014 at 12:47 pm #13443trevarthan
ParticipantT.Fiore is currently reading the material suggested. We were surprised to learn the glass has to be clean of hand oils. I was sure that stuff would just burn right off at fusing temps. I’m uploading some snapshots of the piece here for reference.
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