- March 22, 2010 at 3:11 am #9407dichrogirlParticipant
I’m relatively new to fusing, and have been making mostly pendants and earrings with coe 90, mostly thin, but some 3mm and textures. The biggest problem I have had is with sharp points “needling?” on what my original instructor called “lowfire” pieces, made by randomly stacking pieces, sometimes up to 4 layers, with dichro side up with the intention of leaving quite a bit of texture. From reading through the firing schedules and forum topics, I’m guessing this is probably the equivilent of soft fuse. The schedule I used initially is
500 to 1200, hold 15
500 to 1400 hold 5
full to 960 hold 60
90 to 700
this didn’t seem to be quite hot enough as I had original sharp edges left from cutting.
2nd try was to 1435 hold 5 left needling
3rd try was to 1445 hold 10 better, but still some sharp corners.
I have diamond lapidary equipment to 3000 grit, and don’t mind doing some cold working but can’t get to some of the sharp edges with it.
I’m soooo confused! What am I doing wrong?
I plan to try the soft fuse schedule, but do I still need all the steps for jewelry sized pieces? Or am I better off to use the full schedule?March 22, 2010 at 7:00 pm #11589Stephen RichardParticipant
The material you are firing upon can make a difference. Firing on Thinfire or sprinkled powder is less likely to leave sharp points.
But, you may be firing things that are less than 6mm thick. In this case the glass is retreating from the original footprint due to surface tension trying to be about 6mm thick. Things to think about:
make pieces thicker
fire to a LOWER temperature, so there is not so much chance for the glass to draw in.
Stephen RichardApril 16, 2010 at 5:43 am #11587dichrogirlParticipant
Thanks for the suggestions. I have been using thinfire paper, and yes many of the pieces are less than 6mm thick, expecially on the edges where I have “overhang”. from overlapping pieces. I tried another firing using the soft fuse schedule (except that I did eliminate the steps after reaching 700 and just let the kiln cool on it’s own). The results were much better, with only a few sharp points. Most of these appeared to be the result of cutting rather than firing. Should I try adding about 5 degrees or a longer hold?April 16, 2010 at 7:24 am #11588
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