kiln wash

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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  • #9093
    maryt
    Participant

    Will kiln wash hold up at 1600 degrees F?  Or will it stick to the glass?

    #11290
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    The kiln wash will do it’s job at that temp – which is to say it will prevent your glass from sticking to the kiln shelf.

    That said, you will likely get some kiln wash peeling off the shelf and sticking to the glass.  That isn’t a problem though – when the class fully cools just soak it in vinegar for about 20 minutes and the kiln wash will come right off with a soft brush.

    You will need to scrape and re-kiln wash the shelf. 



    Paul
    FusedGlass.Org
    Helios Kiln Glass Studio
    PaulTarlow.com

     

    #11291
    glassartguy
    Participant

    Paul is correct. I do a lot of pot melts and that glass is melting at 1700 degrees for two hours. Very seldom do I have a problem with the melt actually sticking to the shelf. When I do I figure that it happened because I didn’t cover the shelf completely. I just sandblast it off and refuse, which I need to do anyway because of all the bubbles on the surface at that temp. 

    #11292
    ambucchino
    Participant

    Paul,

    I’ve tried the vinegar and it didn’t work for me. Any idea why?

    Thanks,

    Ann Marie

    #11293
    glassartguy
    Participant

    The only time I have significant problems removing kilnwash is when I got sloppy with the devit spray. Particularly around the edges, if the spray settles into the kilnwash it basically makes borax glass on the underside of the fused piece. That is very difficult to remove.

    #11294
    glassydame52
    Participant

    I realize this is an older post, I am curious as to your sandblasting set up.  I am somewht confused over the siphon vs pressure pot systems.  I have a compressor, 7CFM with 90psi. 4 HP and 11 gallon tank.  Most cabinet set ups want 11-14 CFM, then I found an article about using a smaller

    nozzle to compensate for lower CFM.  I  have looked at tptools and northern tool, harbor freight and Grainger and texas blaster.  Any comments/suggestions welcome.

    thank you

    #11295
    Stephen Richard
    Participant

    Your set up should be perfectly adequate for a pressure pot system.  A bit underpowered and lacking in air storage for siphon.

    Stephen Richard

    blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/   and  http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/

    #11296
    glassartguy
    Participant

     I converted a 70 gallon plastic pickle barrel by cutting off one end and building a window into it as well. I use a small sandblaster called a “speed blaster.” It has a small reservoir for the blasting media (I use silicon carbide), which is a pain to continuously reload, but it doesn’t take much air pressure to work well. I have used this very inexpensive setup to blast fairly extensive projects. It works really well for getting rid of a bit of kiln wash.

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