Is Float glass good for fusing?

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  • #10076

    Hi everybody!

    I hope you can help me with this matter. It’s driving me mad! :D

    I wanted to fuse some glass and as a newbie I decided to go for coe85 because the company offers a good deal in scrap glass.

    I have fired the glass 3 times and oh gosh I just ruined 1.5kg of glass.

    I read online quite a lot and I tried to keep the coated side up which I succeded and for second firing I put a higher temperature too.

    My kiln is a

    Paragon Touch N Fire Electric Ceramic Kiln Model TNF-82-3 240V 7200 Watt 2350 F.

    I’ll break it down to make it more easy to understand (I hope)

    I did the following going up and Down in temp., just modifying the max. temp. and hold time:

    AFAP to 1050 .hold 10 minutes

    100dph to 1250 hold 10 minutes

    Fusing temperature

    Crash cool to 900


    1st firing:

    AFAP 1465 hold 20min

    2nd firing:

    AFAP 1510 hold 15min

    3rd firing:

    AFAP 1510 hold 30min.

    I used a 3mm fire paper.

    Results:

    some pieces the color became a smush

    all the edges are pointy and sharp ( I am griding all the pieces that I feel are decent to keep).

    some os the pieces have a tack fuse look

    I had 4 shelves in the kiln and all of them came out differently

    Some of the pieces suffer devitrification.

    Now, my question are:

    should I buy any more float glass with coe85 or should I go for a higher coe? Because I see everybody using coe90 for glass fusing jewelery and maybe there is a reason for that.. :D

    Are my fusing temperatures wrong?

    Is my 3mm fiber papper affecting the glass?

    Hope you can advise me in this!

    Thanks for your help in advance!

    Catarina

    #13206
    wordana
    Participant

    As you have found, a tall narrow kiln with multiple shelves will have relatively significant temperature differences throughout. That’s why some of your pieces are “pointy” and others are more fully fused.

    Fusible glass is specially  manufactured so that the colors remain true at fusing temps (some shift intentionally, or shift at higher temps) and so that the chance of devitrification is minimized. When you are fusing with float glass, you’ll run into these issues.

    Fusible glass is manufactured by Bullseye (COE90), Spectrum (COE96) and Uroboros (COE 90 & 96). (there are a few other manufacturers, but these are the main ones). The glass is more expensive, but it’s also a lot more predictable/controllable.

    Dana W.

     

    Jester’s Baubles Fused Glass Designs

    http://www.jestersbaubles.com

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