Glue for fused glass jewelry
- September 5, 2008 at 1:46 pm #9175AnonymousInactive
Just wanted to see what you would recommend for an adhesive to glue the bails onto the back of my pendant. I have used E6000 in the past without much sucess. What would be your suggestion.
Thanks CarolSeptember 5, 2008 at 2:04 pm #10611LauraJoParticipant
I have used E6000 with success – but it needs to cure for at least 24 hours before the bond is permanent.September 5, 2008 at 2:11 pm #10612petra kaiserParticipant
Have you tried to roughen both sides a bit and than clean them with alcohol befor you apply the glue? E 6000 seems to be the glue so far – but it is not a 100% guaranty this is the reason, why I favor glass pendants without any glue on bails. (but it seems I’m old fashioned minority in this field when you see all the bails on the market.
petra kaiserSeptember 5, 2008 at 2:24 pm #10613QuotentialsParticipant
I also have used E6000 successfully for quite some time. I rough up both sides using a Dremel type grinder, clean and dry really well, put a fair amount of glue (enough for it to eek up a tiny bit around the edges of the bail), and then place them face down on a cookie sheet. I put the sheet in the oven at 200° and cook for 2 hours. They are left in the oven without being disturbed for 24 hours. I have ocassionally had to take one off, but it gives me a devil of a time.September 5, 2008 at 2:56 pm #10614Linda SteiderParticipant
I use E6000 the same way Petra does for earrings, roughing up all surfaces the glue will be applied to, then letting it cure without touching or moving for 48 hours & rarely have the finding come off. For pendants I’m now drilling & using pinch bails to avoid glue altogether.September 5, 2008 at 2:59 pm #10615LuannJParticipant
I use Triolyse. Though I’ve only been fusing a few months, it has worked perfectly for me so far.September 5, 2008 at 3:08 pm #10616glassartguyParticipant
I came to glass via the Lapidary route. I used to make Opal triplets and Doublets. The glue I used was Epoxy 330. It holds very well, especially if the surfaces are not polished. It can be heated to accelerate the curing time, and most importantly, it cures "waterclear." I have used it on glass with great success. It would work perfectly for the bales.September 5, 2008 at 3:23 pm #10617theglasscatParticipant
Thank you all, I never heard of putting E6000 in the oven to cure, I will have to try that.September 5, 2008 at 4:03 pm #10618rgilbertParticipant
While I haven’t run into problems with E6000, I was told that it can "go bad" because it is too old. If that is true, then it is another possibility to consider.September 5, 2008 at 4:48 pm #10619sunspotParticipant
We’ve pretty much quit using the glue-on method, also. We switched to drilled holes and pinch bails or grinding a channel. When I do use glue, I’ve found Zap a Gap to work better than the others I’ve tried.
Cindy R.September 5, 2008 at 5:06 pm #10620crazycookinParticipant
I have used the UV glues before too and didn’t like the wait time. I had a brilliant idea, well I thought it was at the time and have shared with other since, I could take a small length of No Days Glaze for stained glass and glue my bale on using the heat gun as is recommended. Placed the strip under the bale, heated it up and held in place for a few seconds while it cooled and then let the glass cool down. Total time a couple of minutes and the bale is still in place almost a year later. It is water proof and never goes bad with time, a small roll is about the cost of the glue and will do about 32 bales for every foot of adhesive.. Works great for me!
"Think you can, think you can’t, either way you are right."September 5, 2008 at 5:45 pm #10621LindsayDesignsParticipant
Like most of you, I have been using E6000 for quite some time without much trouble of the glass coming off the metal. I roughen both surfaces with a dremel and then use a tooth pick to apply the glue to the bail and then the bail to the glass. The glue has a tendancy to "skin over" so I generally remove that part before getting a small glob on the end of a tooth pick. If I don’t use that same tube for awhile, I do notice it being a bit stiffer to work with and generally will start a fresh tube.
When I first started fusing I tried using Triolyse mainly on smaller pieces (like earrings) and noticed that when I would do outdoor shows the jewelry would sometimes be in direct sunlight and the backings started coming off the back of the earrings. It was very frustrating… Maybe I wasn’t applying it right?! I stopped using Triolysis completely and just use E6000 for everything now and it does the trick for me!
Speaking of pinch bails – does anyone have any suggestions of a good source to purchase them? Thanks!September 5, 2008 at 7:57 pm #10622VowleParticipant
I’ve been using Marine Silicone for years now. I accidently tested it’s waterproofing by leaving a pendant in my pocket when I washed it, and yes, dried my pants in the dryer. I still wear the pendant no damage done.
Vowle.September 5, 2008 at 9:24 pm #10623mbennettParticipant
I still haven’t found something I love all the time. I’ve had problems with both E6000 and superglue with bails pooping off pendents in heat. So I am figuring everyone thinks superglue is a bad idea as no one has mentioned it? I’ll try the fresh E6000 roughed up the glass and bail and glue both sides and heat in oven method. Ofcourse I will then have to add $5 to the cost of pendents as thats a bunch of work just to glue a bail on. ;0)~
-micheleSeptember 5, 2008 at 10:08 pm #10624Linda SteiderParticipant
I get my pinch bails from Heather Ferman in Florida, Rings & Things & Rio Grande.
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