Fusing Mica Powders

[ziads1]

I would like to fuse some mica powders on a 12 in disc that I plan to use some copper inclusions with. Has anyone combined the mica with copper sheet?If I want color on these clear glass discs, I usually put powdered glass on them and then fire. After firing I add the copper inclusion and then cap the copper and fire to a full-fuse. I’m not sure about the mica’s. Can I apply them and fire them like the powdered glass? Or, do they need to be capped before firing? Any ideas? Thanks, Bev

[Anonymous]

The biggest difference between mica and powder is that powder melts at kiln temperatures – mica does not.

For example, if you put a bunch of powder on your copper and heated it to fusing temperature the glass would be stuck to the copper.  Do the same with mica and it will fall right off the copper.

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Paul
FusedGlass.Org
Helios Kiln Glass Studio
PaulTarlow.com

 

[lsharik]

  I have had some succes with mixing bullseye crystal clear powder with mica powder before fusing. I am doing glass casting though so the powder and mica are mixed with gum arabic to hold them in place in my mold. But I do get mica IN my glass piece not just on the surface where it only adheres in places. So you might try mixing your glass powder and mica powder and see.

Lisa S

[ziads1]

Thanks for your answer Paul. I use mica’s(Pearl X) In my gourd art, so there is no heat involved. This will be a new experience for me to include them with glass and copper. The other problem that I am having, is when the copper design is large, I get bubbles near the center under the capped glass. I guess I will need to experiment with some small clear glass placed around the copper to vent when fusing. Bev

[ziads1]

Gosh Lisa, What an adventure fusing is. Everyone has a different method. I’m going to try mixing the two on a scrap and fire and see what happens. Thanks, Bev

[Anonymous]

Just a heads up that not all PearlEx mica colors will withstand the heat of a fusing.

Here are some that I’ve tested with success:

• Antique Copper (reddish copper)
• Blue Russet (looks pretty much like Russet when fired)
• Flamingo Pink (doesn’t stay hot pink – but fires simillar to Bullseyes Gold Purple color)
• Relex Violet (stunning)
• Duo Green/Yellow (ends up greenish gold)
• True Blue (also stunning)
• Duo Red/Blue (fires to a nice slivery blue)
• Interference Gold (go with a cheaper non-PearlEx gold)
• Spring Green (not at all like Bullseye Spring green – fires to an emerald color)
• Bright Yellow (yellowish gold)
• Turquoise (shifts ever-so-slightly between light blue and pale purple once fired)
• Supper Copper (go with cheaper non-PearlEx copper)
• Macro Pearl (speckled silver – tends to clog airbrush)
• Antique Silver (dullish gray/silver)

As with anything like this – your mileage may vary

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Paul
FusedGlass.Org
Helios Kiln Glass Studio
PaulTarlow.com

 

[ziads1]

 Thanks Paul, I made a copy of your list to compare with what I have. I’m going to take a shot at it. Bev

[Linda Steider]

I mix mica with powdered glass a lot.  Different colors mixed with different colors of mica give a whole new range of colors than you can get with powders alone.  Not to mention the sparkly factor.  I use cosmetic micas & have done extensive testing – you can see some of my results here:  http://www.steiderstudios.com/mica.html  

My web designer isn’t as fast as I am, so the photos aren’t loaded yet… when mixing mica with powder, I found a little goes a long way.  I start with a mix of 4:1 (for example) glass:mica, then dilute by half with more powder; dilute that by half, etc, etc.

Linda

[ziads1]

Hi Linda, That’s a different way  of mixing the powders. I will look at your pictures when you get them posted.Thanks, Bev

[waterlook jen]

Paul, I have been looking online for more mica colours.  I have heard of blues, greens etc as you mention.  But I can’t find a source to order these from.  Where does one find the colours you refer to ?  Many thanks,

Jen

[bookie13]

There are lots of sources for micas. We have them at our online store (see below), but they are also available in lots of other places. Most glass distributors have them especially torch glass distributors. Most Pottery distributors have them also.

Google can be your friend.

Barry Kaiser

Web Site    http://www.kaiserglass.com

Glass Classes:   http://www.Kaiserglass.com/classes.html

Tutorials      http://www.kaiserglass.com/tutorials.html

[waterlook jen]

Thanks Barrie for your input; I’ve now visited your site; love the colours.  Google has been a longtime friend but not on this search.  I was only finding the golds/silvers/bronzes but I had heard of some blues & greens out there but I could not find them at any of the sites that came up.  Perhaps I hadn’t drilled down far enough yet.  Thanks again.

Jen

[Anonymous]

We’ve had mixed success with PearlEx (available from Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc.).  Many of the colors burn out very close to the temperature at which the glass melts sufficiently to stick to the mica.  Some colors, for example, work great on black (thanks to its relatively lower melting temperature) but not on stiffer glasses.  The key to micas is to test.

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Paul
FusedGlass.Org
Helios Kiln Glass Studio
PaulTarlow.com

 

[waterlook jen]

Thanks Paul.  I didn’t understand what PearlEx was on first reading, being new to fusing. 

Appreciate your input,

Jen

[catbrac]

http://theconservatorie.com/category.php?cPath=1_9_35&SID=20111110-39185-z702&view_all=1&max_pages=yes&PHPSESSID=tlo0r8iidrhnf1le578n069674

This site has Micca in every color you can imagine.  The prices seem to be pretty good and they sell sample size packets for less that $1.00 so you can buy many colors and test them.

 

Dont forget to post pics, good or bad.

Cathy

[Author]

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