Fusing Mica Powders
- September 11, 2008 at 1:30 am #9220
I would like to fuse some mica powders on a 12 in disc that I plan to use some copper inclusions with. Has anyone combined the mica with copper sheet?If I want color on these clear glass discs, I usually put powdered glass on them and then fire. After firing I add the copper inclusion and then cap the copper and fire to a full-fuse. I’m not sure about the mica’s. Can I apply them and fire them like the powdered glass? Or, do they need to be capped before firing? Any ideas? Thanks, BevSeptember 12, 2008 at 12:35 am #10797AnonymousInactive
The biggest difference between mica and powder is that powder melts at kiln temperatures – mica does not.
For example, if you put a bunch of powder on your copper and heated it to fusing temperature the glass would be stuck to the copper. Do the same with mica and it will fall right off the copper.
Helios Kiln Glass Studio
PaulTarlow.comSeptember 12, 2008 at 12:03 pm #10798lsharikParticipant
I have had some succes with mixing bullseye crystal clear powder with mica powder before fusing. I am doing glass casting though so the powder and mica are mixed with gum arabic to hold them in place in my mold. But I do get mica IN my glass piece not just on the surface where it only adheres in places. So you might try mixing your glass powder and mica powder and see.
Lisa SSeptember 12, 2008 at 1:01 pm #10799
Thanks for your answer Paul. I use mica’s(Pearl X) In my gourd art, so there is no heat involved. This will be a new experience for me to include them with glass and copper. The other problem that I am having, is when the copper design is large, I get bubbles near the center under the capped glass. I guess I will need to experiment with some small clear glass placed around the copper to vent when fusing. BevSeptember 12, 2008 at 1:03 pm #10800
Gosh Lisa, What an adventure fusing is. Everyone has a different method. I’m going to try mixing the two on a scrap and fire and see what happens. Thanks, BevSeptember 12, 2008 at 6:34 pm #10801AnonymousInactive
Just a heads up that not all PearlEx mica colors will withstand the heat of a fusing.
Here are some that I’ve tested with success:
- Antique Copper (reddish copper)
- Blue Russet (looks pretty much like Russet when fired)
- Flamingo Pink (doesn’t stay hot pink – but fires simillar to Bullseyes Gold Purple color)
- Relex Violet (stunning)
- Duo Green/Yellow (ends up greenish gold)
- True Blue (also stunning)
- Duo Red/Blue (fires to a nice slivery blue)
- Interference Gold (go with a cheaper non-PearlEx gold)
- Spring Green (not at all like Bullseye Spring green – fires to an emerald color)
- Bright Yellow (yellowish gold)
- Turquoise (shifts ever-so-slightly between light blue and pale purple once fired)
- Supper Copper (go with cheaper non-PearlEx copper)
- Macro Pearl (speckled silver – tends to clog airbrush)
- Antique Silver (dullish gray/silver)
As with anything like this – your mileage may vary
Helios Kiln Glass Studio
PaulTarlow.comSeptember 12, 2008 at 8:46 pm #10802
Thanks Paul, I made a copy of your list to compare with what I have. I’m going to take a shot at it. BevSeptember 12, 2008 at 8:57 pm #10803Linda SteiderParticipant
I mix mica with powdered glass a lot. Different colors mixed with different colors of mica give a whole new range of colors than you can get with powders alone. Not to mention the sparkly factor. I use cosmetic micas & have done extensive testing – you can see some of my results here: http://www.steiderstudios.com/mica.html
My web designer isn’t as fast as I am, so the photos aren’t loaded yet… when mixing mica with powder, I found a little goes a long way. I start with a mix of 4:1 (for example) glass:mica, then dilute by half with more powder; dilute that by half, etc, etc.
LindaSeptember 12, 2008 at 9:06 pm #10804
Hi Linda, That’s a different way of mixing the powders. I will look at your pictures when you get them posted.Thanks, BevFebruary 25, 2011 at 5:51 pm #10805
Paul, I have been looking online for more mica colours. I have heard of blues, greens etc as you mention. But I can’t find a source to order these from. Where does one find the colours you refer to ? Many thanks,
JenFebruary 25, 2011 at 7:56 pm #10806bookie13Participant
There are lots of sources for micas. We have them at our online store (see below), but they are also available in lots of other places. Most glass distributors have them especially torch glass distributors. Most Pottery distributors have them also.
Google can be your friend.
Web Site http://www.kaiserglass.com
Glass Classes: http://www.Kaiserglass.com/classes.htmlFebruary 26, 2011 at 6:29 am #10807
Thanks Barrie for your input; I’ve now visited your site; love the colours. Google has been a longtime friend but not on this search. I was only finding the golds/silvers/bronzes but I had heard of some blues & greens out there but I could not find them at any of the sites that came up. Perhaps I hadn’t drilled down far enough yet. Thanks again.
JenFebruary 27, 2011 at 7:59 am #10808AnonymousInactive
We’ve had mixed success with PearlEx (available from Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc.). Many of the colors burn out very close to the temperature at which the glass melts sufficiently to stick to the mica. Some colors, for example, work great on black (thanks to its relatively lower melting temperature) but not on stiffer glasses. The key to micas is to test.
Helios Kiln Glass Studio
PaulTarlow.comFebruary 27, 2011 at 5:03 pm #10809
Thanks Paul. I didn’t understand what PearlEx was on first reading, being new to fusing.
Appreciate your input,
JenNovember 12, 2011 at 3:16 am #10810catbracParticipant
This site has Micca in every color you can imagine. The prices seem to be pretty good and they sell sample size packets for less that $1.00 so you can buy many colors and test them.
Dont forget to post pics, good or bad.
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