Firing Schedule for a Texture Mold
- December 31, 2013 at 4:36 pm #10062
I HAD the large 12 x 12 tree of life texture mold that Delphi sells.
I coated it with MR-97 and tried to slump just one sheet thickness of black bullseye irridized glass into/onto the mold. I don’t recall my firing schedule, I think I just used a basic slumping schedule. It just never seemed to take the form of the mold. Then it STUCK. My expensive mold broke! Ack. I have another texture mold I want to use but I was wondering if I shouldn’t use MR-97 on it and does anybody have a firing schedule they can recommend?December 31, 2013 at 5:21 pm #13155animacParticipant
MR 97 and kiln wash will make your glass stick if applied thick. Remember that any mold that you spray MR 97 with, will no longer accept kiln wash. On the other hand, you can go to MR97 after kiln wash The trick to both these methods is, laying them thinly. Kiln wash works great if you fire the mold first without glass, then fill and fire. Slumping temp is not hot enough to allow the glass to melt and settle in the crevaces of your mold. Up your target temp slightly and hold longer. MR97, gives you a more polished, clean surface, whereas kiln wash is usually matte. If your glass is stuck in a mold, do not force it…..next time youre firing something, simply turn your mold (with the stuck glass) over, set on stilts and full blast. Your glass will melt out and puddle on your kilnshelf, but you will save your expensive mold .I hope this helps..January 1, 2014 at 4:07 pm #13156wordanaParticipant
That’s an interesting comment that too thick of kiln wash or bn will cause the glass to stick.
Creative Paradise has a tutorial, with firing schedule, for their peacock texture tile. The two tiles are very similar. http://creativeparadise.biz/glass/tutorialsvideos/textured-slumped-peacock-bowl-tutorial
Here are a couple of things I have found about texture tiles, which may apply:
Ones that carry a lot of detail are a little more tricky to get a good coating of glass separater in all the nooks and crannies. The tutorial recommends several light coats of BN — make sure you are spraying from all directions, or if kiln washing with a brush, make sure you brush from all directions.
Additionally, some of the very detailed texture tiles actually seem to have some areas of undercuts.I guess the “good news” is that often when your trying to remove the problem (broken) pieces of glass, these undercuts will chip out and resolve themselves.That’s not the best way to deal with undercuts . You could try to identify them and sand them, or make sure to build up kiln wash in that area.
Detailed texture tiles also seem to be very prone to bubbles. Creative Paradise does have a bubble squeeze in that schedule, but it’s ramping a little fast for my taste so if you experience problems you may want to slow it down.
Finally, I think these tiles work best with at least two layers of glass, since the glass is going to try to round out to 1/4″ thick if you are bringing it to fusing temps. That means it will likely thin out and perhaps cause areas on top of the texture that are actually thin enough to crack.
And one final final note , if you do use more than two layers of glass, make sure to dam the glass or cut it smaller than the mold. Otherwise, the glass will flow over the edges and then crack on cool down.
Jester’s Baubles Fused Glass DesignsJanuary 2, 2014 at 1:34 pm #13157
Well I disagree about applying kiln wash too thick (don’t know about MR-97). I always apply a good 10-12 coats of wash and it lasts for numerous firings. ~LauraJanuary 2, 2014 at 1:35 pm #13158
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