Devitrification, any fix after the fact?

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Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
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  • #9368
    sherrieb
    Participant

    Hi all,

    still having fun with the new kiln (Caldera) and I was fusing some small jewelry pieces this time.  Pieces on top shelf were fine, but most on bottom shelf have the “scum” on them.  I’ve checked into the causes of this, and perhaps I didn’t get them clean enough (would shelf lying on the kiln floor contribute?).  Is there any way to correct it on those pieces, though, or are they garbage at this point?  If garbage, does that mean just throw them out, or can I reuse in a pot melt or break them up to add to something else later?

    thanks,

    SherrieB

    #11486
    Anonymous
    Inactive

     Sandblast and fire polish.



    Paul
    FusedGlass.Org
    Helios Kiln Glass Studio
    PaulTarlow.com

     

    #11485
    sherrieb
    Participant

    Thanks Paul!

     

    SherrieB

    #11484
    Caren Johnson
    Participant

    This is an interesting subject because I have been firing some rather large pieces, and they break if cooled too quickly. I am having a hard time deciding how to cool them more slowly withoug risking devitirfication as well. And in your experience, fusers, would the devitification spray prevent both these occurrences? Thanks, Caren

    #11487
    bookie13
    Participant

    Hi Sherry,

    Devit on cabs is usually caused by your not grinding the edge fine enough. Many people use a 120 grit bit to grind their cabs. If you fuse those, you will get scum. You need to grind much finer (320 minimum) and then add a light coating of some devit agent (spray A, clearcoat, etc).

    As to cooling, devit forms above 1200°F. thermal shock happens below 1000°F. So if you crash your kiln below1200 you will not have to worry about adding to the potential of devit. Having said that, most of the major glass manufacturers’ glass is devit resistant and will not likely have devit unless you are doing multiple firings or firing very high.

     

    Barry

    Barry Kaiser

    Web Site    http://www.kaiserglass.com

    Glass Classes:   http://www.Kaiserglass.com/classes.html

    Tutorials      http://www.kaiserglass.com/tutorials.html

    #11488
    Caren Johnson
    Participant

    Thanks Barry,

    This site is so helpful! You all are so willing to share your experiences and knowledge!
    Caren

    #11489
    sherrieb
    Participant

    Thanks Barry!

    SherrieB

    #11490
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Bullseye just sent out a tech tip that suggests sifting a very thin layer (really just enough to cover the surface) of 1401 crystal clear powder and refiring to about 1435f for 10 minutes. Just tried it and worked great.



    Paul
    FusedGlass.Org
    Helios Kiln Glass Studio
    PaulTarlow.com

     

    #11491
    sherrieb
    Participant

    Thanks Paul, I will try that.  My husband swears we have a sandblaster, but knows not where…

     

    SherrieB

    #11492
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Wow – cannot imagine losing a sandblaster – they are usually huge Laughing



    Paul
    FusedGlass.Org
    Helios Kiln Glass Studio
    PaulTarlow.com

     

    #11493
    tzirlen
    Participant

    What did you use to sift that thin layer of powder?  I tried this fix and my results weren’t great because I couldn’t get that thin, even layer I was looking for.  Thanks!

    #11494
    thomas decker
    Participant

    you  can also use an eching cream and than re fire I have used etch all but any etching cream should work.

    I have done this several times and it works really well , just make sure that you clean the piece very well after you  etch the glass , It’s like sandblasting without the blaster. )

    Thomas Decker

    #11495
    WackyPup
    Participant

    I also have a caldera, & I would love to know how you’re getting two shelves in it. Are they 7 inch shelves? Do you have them staggered? When I tried two shelves the top shelf and bottom shelf were two totally different fusing experiences

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