Deep Slumped Bowls
- March 3, 2009 at 4:20 pm #9318windfireParticipant
I have been trying to make some of those wonderful deep slumped bowls I see on the website but I never seem to get the height. I have adjusted my slumping schedules and use a deep slumping mold. Help! What is the secret?
DebbyMarch 3, 2009 at 5:56 pm #11167
The secret is to slump in stages. Ist a shallow one, then a medium one and then the deep one.
I have seen descriptions of placing whiting in the deep mould for the first slump, emptying some and doing a second, and then the final slump without whiting. This saves having to buy three moulds.
Stephen RichardMarch 3, 2009 at 7:21 pm #11168AnonymousInactive
In addition to Stephen’s good advice, you can also get a deep slump by using a drop ring and cutting off the “hat brim”. That is how this piece was done:
This can be done slumping into the air (traditional drop ring) or by cutting a custom ring out of fiber board to fit the mold of you choice. After slumping, the rim is cut off and the edge of the piece polished.
Lastly, many time you can slump directly into the deep mold twice. The first slump will almost certainly be lopsided – but the piece can then be repositioned for a second slump.
Helios Kiln Glass Studio
PaulTarlow.comMarch 5, 2009 at 1:58 am #11169windfireParticipant
Thanks to both of you for the advise! I have several pieces to try this on. Hopefully I will get one good enough to put in the galley.
DebbyMarch 6, 2009 at 1:11 pm #11170QuotentialsParticipant
Good info! I have done something similar to filling the mold, by filling a small shallow bowl mold with kilnwash and slumping to make round coasters. Turned out great. I had fogotten all about that. Can the kilnwash still be mixed with water and used (traditionally) after a firing like that?
Paul, after cutting the top of the dropring off, is the edge coldworked? Or can it be firepolished in some way?March 7, 2009 at 1:23 am #11171VernelleParticipant
If you are slumping into a deep mold filled with kilnwash or whatever…..that plugs up the hole in the bottom of the mold for air to escape. What am I missing here?
VernelleMarch 7, 2009 at 8:39 am #11172
” I have done something similar to filling the mold, by filling a small shallow bowl mold with kilnwash and slumping to make round coasters. Turned out great. I had fogotten all about that. Can the kilnwash still be mixed with water and used (traditionally) after a firing like that?”
Yes. Although I prefer to use the cheaper whiting.
Stephen RichardMarch 7, 2009 at 8:42 am #11173“If you are slumping into a deep mold filled with kilnwash or whatever…..that plugs up the hole in the bottom of the mold for air to escape. What am I missing here? Thank you, Vernelle “You are slumping at bubble squeeze, or lower, temperatures: the form is relatively shallow: and unless you pack the powder, it will allow some air to disperse through it.
Stephen RichardMarch 8, 2009 at 8:08 pm #11174BetNewParticipant
Betsi – Avondale, AZ
I curious how deep a drop your mold has.
And, Paul, how deep was the drop for the Tapestry Cup?
Thanks!March 8, 2009 at 8:19 pm #11175AnonymousInactiveMarch 9, 2009 at 1:15 am #11176debemerickParticipant
—Albert EinstMarch 9, 2009 at 1:27 am #11177VernelleParticipant
People who do stained glass in lead use a putty that is a little messy. They use a whiting which is a white powder, I think calcium carbonate, to sprinkle on their project to absorb some of the moisture of the putty and clean the glass.
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