can you do…
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Lioness.
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- November 10, 2012 at 3:57 am #9890
Lioness
Participanta fire polish/anealing on a slumped dish without the mold? I lost my schedual for this stage if a suggestion is available I would appreciate that also.
November 11, 2012 at 6:16 pm #12745Stephen Richard
ParticipantNo.
Fire polishing temperatures are above slumping temperatures.
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/
November 12, 2012 at 2:46 am #12746Lioness
ParticipantI appreciate your responding Stephen. And what a nice site too I am checking it out now…. Thank you again. ~A
November 30, 2012 at 3:33 pm #12739Lioness
ParticipantI need help as to why the edges of the glass are doing this? I am newer to slumping and I have been trying to get this dish to have it’s border lip to be even … however one border always does this, Am not sure what I’m doing to cause this and or how to fix it. Any help is appreciated. ok so the pic won’t load not sure what I am doing wrong so I have a gallery here on this site I will try to post a pic there. The lip border on one side is always melted uneven. there seems to always be one side out of the 4 sides that does this… I apologize bout the pic let me see if it will load in my gallery.
November 30, 2012 at 11:23 pm #12740marV
ParticipantIf one needs to firepolish after slumping can you put the piece back into the mold and then firepolish it? Would this hurt the mold?
December 1, 2012 at 4:04 am #12741wordana
ParticipantWhat’s your slumping temp?
Is the kiln/kiln shelf level?
Dana W.
Jester’s Baubles Fused Glass Designs
December 1, 2012 at 7:03 am #12742Stephen Richard
ParticipantMarV,
You CAN do this. People do it from time to time. you need to think about what you want to achieve. If you want to polish the edges, do it by cold working – Paul has a nice book on cold working availavble from this site.
If you want to polish the surface after, for example, sandblasting then you do need to consider fire polishing in the mould. Make sure you have the mould covered with kiln wash, so you do not get any sticking. Please note: you will also have to clean and re-coat the mould after the fire polishing session, as the chemical composition changes after being in or above the fire polishing temperature causing it to stick to the glass on the next firing.
Use the usual slump scheule up to about 600C and then fire fast to the fire polish temperature with a minimum soak – observation is a good idea to be able to tell when the piece has become glossy. This proceedure will not always work = the piece may slump further, making it unsuitable; It may slump to one side; it may move to the bottom; it may stick to the mould.
I think it is a good idea to know if you need to fire polish at all. You can polish glass by hand with more assurance of success.
Stephen
Stephen Richard
blogs at: http://www.verrier-glass.blogspot.com/ and http://www.glasstips.blogspot.com/
December 1, 2012 at 3:21 pm #12743Lioness
ParticipantHi Dana,
What a gr8!! question.. lol and guess it (shelf) is a bit uneven, I never noticed that. This would also explain why it’s not happening to everyone of the dishes. I’m alternating shellfs in order to produce faster…lol one comes out a new one goes in. My temp is 1350 also. I have been baffled as to how it could “burn” one side and only sometimes . gonna see how it does once I level the shelf better.
I will write again to let the progress shine from here… Thank you for your thought.
December 3, 2012 at 3:06 am #12744wordana
ParticipantCheck both sides. With one of my shelves, one side is flat and the other side is a little “off”.
I have a very small — about 3″ — level. Usually, when I place something in a mold I check to make sure it’s sitting in the mold level.
Da
Jester’s Baubles Fused Glass Designs
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