adhesive for use with textured dichroic dichroic
- This topic has 9 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 14 years ago by Anonymous.
- November 4, 2008 at 1:42 pm #9265
Hi! What brands of adhesives work great for adhering flat COE to textured dichroic? The dichroic is thick and has huge hills and valleys. It keeps sliding off my COE. I am trying to sandwich the dichroic between two flat COE’s. I have always worked with Elmer’s Washable, and it has done a great job at keeping things in place when prepping for the kiln…. even with flat dichroic. Unfortunately, not with my textured. I was told hairspray will work. However I have heard that hairspray can effect the colors in the dichroic. Thanks for your suggestions!November 13, 2008 at 4:56 pm #10948rgilbertParticipant
Have you tried to use fire brick to support the sandwiches of glass?
I’ve used hairspray (Suave is cheap and works fine) on dichroic, but never on the metallic side.It’s never been a problem.
R. GilbertNovember 14, 2008 at 8:24 pm #10949petra kaiserParticipant
Try a dab of aloe vera. But don’t wait to long before you place it in the kiln. The aloe dries and than won’t hold it in place any more. Some people also are using Elmer’s gel glue with success.
petra kaiser – http://www.kaiserlee.comNovember 15, 2008 at 2:30 am #10950silverwingsandthingsParticipant
Be real careful with the type of glues you use on the glass. Sometimes you can get a hazy effect, even with the blue gel glue from Elmers. I use only Glastac. Another suggestion is to use individual frit pieces to help support your clear cap. Another suggestion is to fuse the dichro to smooth it out then clear cap. If I am making small earrings I usually do not clear cap.
Another suggestion is to make up a tile of the glass, being careful to initiate a bubble squeeze then use a tile saw to cut the piece up to size polish with your grinder and then fire polish. A 600 grinder head is best for a clear edge on you pieces unless you have a lap grinder.
Good Luck!November 15, 2008 at 8:23 pm #10951
I don’t have any bricks, but if I have no luck with hairspray it might be wiseto invest in some. I have another question for you. I just attemped my first tack fusing. I looked through a few schedules and chose one I thought seemed simple enough and would work perfect. The schedule peaked at 1300. I thought that seemed low, but I found several other schedules that fired at that same temperature so I figured it would do. Sadly enough the schedule failed. The entire batch of pendants seem intact but they are malformed. There are ones that are unlevel in certain spots… cap started to slump over on one end, but flat on the other. There are others that look like they have never stepped foot in a kiln. Obviously I will not use this schedule again. How can I salvage these? I want another attempt at tacking them. Is it possible to re-fire them or are they history? If they aresalvagable, do I have to go through the entire schedule as if I were starting from step 1 or can I make some adjustments? Since the glass has been partially heated I figure this might make a difference. Maybe at this point I can only do a full fusing with these items. ?
Thanks for all of your help! Have a great week-end!November 15, 2008 at 8:25 pm #10952
Thanks for the help!November 17, 2008 at 8:44 pm #10953silverwingsandthingsParticipant
What type of kiln do you have? Are the elements in the top or the sides. If they are in the sides the heat can pull your glass pieces unevenly. Tack fusing is something you will have to experiment with your particular kiln. I find that lower temps with a longer soak work best. Also you are experiencing the different flow/melting temps of each type of glass. Black 100 vs Stiff Black 101 this is all part of the learning process. I have had dichroic pieces leap from one piece of glass to another. All is not lost. You can always fuse up to approximately 3 times sometimes more depending on the heat as eventually the compatibilities of different glasses will change. I have not had it happen to me yet.November 17, 2008 at 10:42 pm #10954rgilbertParticipant
It is important to keep careful records of the heating/cooling cycles (temperature, time, ramps up, cool downs, segments) as well as the type of glass you are using. Colors can act differently– darker colors tend to heat faster than lighter colors, but you need to keep track of what actually happens without relying solely on a “rule of thumb.”And just as you would not mix different COEs in a single piece, it is best to keep to one COE in the kiln.
R.GilbertNovember 18, 2008 at 6:28 pm #10955Stephen RichardParticipant
I have no idea what COE in the first message of this thread might be. Normally it refers to coefficient of expansion, and doesn’t tell as much as people think it does. Name the glass and people will know what is being talked about.
Anyway, 703C is not enough to fuse even small pieces unless you soak for a long time. The best thing to do is to look at the Bullseye site tech note #4 under education:
This will help you chose a sensible programme as you will have an idea of what is happening at the various temperatures.
One very simple schedule Bullseye uses for up to 12″ x 1/4″ is:
220C to 677C, 30min soak
330C to 805C, 10min soak
afap to 516C, 30mins
80C/hr to 370
SteveNovember 20, 2008 at 6:57 am #10956
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.