Actual Clock Hours for A Fusing Program

Home Forums Glass Fusing General Fusing Discussion Actual Clock Hours for A Fusing Program

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • Author
  • #9614


    This is real “newbie” question, but I’m a real “newbie” with a kiln. Just got my first one this week. Here’s the question: Approximately how may hours will it take to do a full fuse on a shelf of jewelry? I’m trying to understand the programs in my kiln and I think I have them figured out, but I wanted to double check with the experts.

    Here’s the way the chart reads:

    Rate: 250 degrees/Hour  Soak Temp: 300 degrees    Hold Length: 10 minutes

    Rate:400 degrees/Hour   Soak Temp: 1465 degrees   Hold Length: 10 minutes

    Rate:9999 degrees/Hour  Soak Temp: 950 degrees    Hold Length: 60 minutes

    Rate: 100 degrees/Hour   Soak Temp: 800 degrees    Hold Length: 15 minutes

    Here’s my interpretation:

    It will take about an hour and a quarter to heat up to 300 degrees and hold there for 10 minutes. Then it will take about another 3 or so hours to get to 1465 degrees and hold there for 10 minutes. Then it will start down and not take very long to get to 950 degrees where it will stay for an hour. Then it will take another hour and 30 minutes to get to 800 degrees where it will stay for 15 minutes. Then the program turns off and the kiln needs to cool down to below 100 degrees before I open the lid.

    If my interpretation is correct, it will take about 7 clock hours to run the progam plus however much longer it takes to cool down to room temperature.

    Am I correct? Is this in the ballpark?

    How long does it typically take to cool down from 800 to 100 degrees?

    Thanks for your help!!!


    Stephen Richard

    Yes you are correct in your calculations.

    Cool down depends on the size of kiln and amount of heat stored.  Small kilns cool more quickly than large, fiber lined kilns cool more quickly than brick lined.

    When I get a new kiln (6 years ago now) I watch the kiln cool.  I look over every 15 mins or so and record time an temperature.  Then I can figure out how quickly the kiln cools on its own.  For big ones, I pull the observation plugs out when the rate slows dramatically.

    Stephen Richard

    blogs at: and

    Lynn g

    What Stephen said.  Also, remember youare starting at room tepmerature, note zero, so it will probably take you a little less than an hour on your first ramp (unless it’s really cold where your kiln is.)

    To your firing record sheet, add “start time” and “finish time” and you will soon have a very good idea of how long it takes to run a particular porgram…all part of getting to know your kiln.


    The mindset of most glass artists is toward larger pieces. Jewelry sized pieces are a whole different world. Much much easier.

    For a full fuse my schedule on a jewelry piece that is 2 (or 3) layers is as follows:

    AFAP to 1050 hold for 15 min

    100 dph to 1250 hold 10 minutes

    AFAP to 1525 (depends significantly on the kiln) hold 12 min.

    Crash cool to 960.

    Once there crack the kiln slightly and let cool to about 400.

    If you are on a mullite shelf, you can don your gloves and remove the shelf and let air cool (making sure there is no draft where you set the shelf).

    Total time in the kiln until removel…about 3 hrs.

    I have a tutorial on my site explaining this along with other schedules for jewelry.


    Barry Kaiser

    Web Site

    Glass Classes:



    Hi Barry,

    It’s good to know that jewelry will take less time, once I know how my kiln works. For now, I’m just using the preset programs that came with the kiln to see the outcomes. I’ve run 2 full fuse programs in the past week with good results. I’m running my first tack fuse program today – we’ll see…

    There is MUCH to learn…

    Thanks, Barb


    Just wanted to thank you for this tutorial.  As a new fuser, I was following a standard fusing schedule, which equated to almost 5-6 hours of fusing time from start to final cool down (at which time I would turn the kiln off and could walk away.  I don’t have a programmable kiln, so I’m learning alot about schedules).  This last time, I tried your condensed fusing schedule for jewelry pieces and was amazed at the success!  Everything turned out well, no problems.  In fact, the kiln at full fuse got away from me just slightly, so next time, it will even be cut down by a little more time (I feel the pieces are just slightly overfused, but thats my opinion.)  Total time until I could turn off and walk away:  4 hours.  Gotta love it!  Smile

    Thanks so much for posting this here and on your site!



Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

People Who Like Thisx