Texture mold


That’s an interesting comment that too thick of kiln wash or bn will cause the glass to stick.

Creative Paradise has a tutorial, with firing schedule, for their peacock texture tile. The two tiles are very similar. http://creativeparadise.biz/glass/tutorialsvideos/textured-slumped-peacock-bowl-tutorial

Here are a couple of things I have found about texture tiles, which may apply:

Ones that carry a lot of detail are a little more tricky to get a good coating of glass separater in all the nooks and crannies. The tutorial recommends several light coats of BN — make sure you are spraying from all directions, or if kiln washing with a brush, make sure you brush from all directions.

Additionally, some of the very detailed texture tiles actually seem to have some areas of undercuts.I guess the “good news” is that often when your trying to remove the problem (broken) pieces of glass, these undercuts will chip out and resolve themselves.That’s not the best way to deal with undercuts ;). You could try to identify them and sand them, or make sure to build up kiln wash in that area.

Detailed texture tiles also seem to be very prone to bubbles. Creative Paradise does have a bubble squeeze in that schedule, but it’s ramping a little fast for my taste so if you experience problems you may want to slow it down.

Finally, I think these tiles work best with at least two layers of glass, since the glass is going to try to round out to 1/4″ thick if you are bringing it to fusing temps. That means it will likely thin out and perhaps cause areas on top of the texture that are actually thin enough to crack.

And one final final note :), if you do use more than two layers of glass, make sure to dam the glass or cut it smaller than the mold. Otherwise, the glass will flow over the edges and then crack on cool down.

Dana W.

Jester’s Baubles Fused Glass Designs


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