Hi! What I mainly refer to as “spiking” are places that are sharp and often come to a point. Depending on the shape of the pendant some are more noticeable (ie.: a pendant that fires into a pear shape has a sharp elongated tip at its bottom…. maybe it might be more clearer if you think of a heart shape and where its rounded sides come together to a point). If you press very hard on these spikes you could cut yourself. I figure I might be able to use fine sandpaper that has been wettened and lightly rub on the pendants whose spikes are less sharp. I’ll have to be very careful to avoid any hazing. It’s worth a try. I looked over my pendants again, and I found most spikes usually occur at 90 degree angles. Several pieces without an obvious 90 degree angle tended to stretch and flatten at both ends. It looked as if the caps did not completely wrap around to the bases. Instead of being sharp these pendants were rough in the areas that did not completely cap over. There probably is a name for this type of problem. I thought I had cut the caps slightly bigger than the base and had them both shaped closely the same…. maybe I was slightly off. I prep my kiln by using kiln wash on the shelf. Before my first firing I also kiln washed my kiln. I place thick shelf paper on the shelf and posts underneath the shelf. With my first schedule my bases were rough. I was told this can happen. On my second schedule I swept out my kiln and tossed away the paper. The paper had almost turned to dust. I decided this time to turn over my paper and fire on the smoother side. This made a huge difference! The paper didn’t burn away and is reusable. I kept plenty of distance between each piece of fiber paper on the shelf. Each pendant was set on its own individual piece of shelf paper, and I laid at least an additional 1/2″ of paper around the pendant so as not to get glass on my shelf. All of the shelf paper laid completely flat. Here are my schedules:














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