Wine Bottle Slump?

I received a 'big girl' kiln for Christmas and I'm working on my learning curve using a big one (as opposed to my little table top) with a rampmaster.  I thought doing a wine bottle slump might be a good way to try things out.  That way, if I screw things up it shouldn't be too traumatic!  Does anyone have any suggestions and/or a schedule you may have used with good results you are willing to share?



Warm glass might help

You might try a web search, or Enjoy your experimenting.

Take it up to slumping

Take it up to slumping temperature.  You probably will have to watch, as bottle glass requires higher temperatures than fusing glass.  I have done it at about 720C.

You do need to be careful about annealing though.  At the base, the glass may be 13mm thick when slumped.  So your annealing needs to begin about 80-100C below the slump temperature with a soak for about an hour, followed by a slow cool, say abour 30C/hr to about 400C and then 100C to room temp.




Thanks!  That's just the kind of info I was looking for.  I figured there had to be a few issues and I had wondered about the varying thicknesses.


Hi Wendy, in my Fuse It book

Hi Wendy,

in my Fuse It book I have a chapter "Recycle It" - were you will find some things to do with bottle glass. I ususally fire bottles with my other full fuse firings and never had a problem.

The firing schedule I've been using in the past 10 years is

ramp up 10/min - 600 per hour to 1000 hold for 10 min

ramp fast to 1450 - hold for 10 min

ramp down fast to 960 and hold for 1 hr

let cool.

have fun

petra kaiser -


Bottle slumping

If all you are doing is slumping, 787C seems high.

Also 515C seems low for an annealing soak, since most bottle glass behaves pretty much like float.

I presume you do more than just switch off after the hour at annealing soak.  Depending on how thick the piece is I would consider 80C/hr to about 400C to do the annealing, before cooling faster.

Still, it is only a bottle.



Since it is only a bottle, I

Since it is only a bottle, I don't bather and so far none of my bottles broke and they are looking as all the other bottles you see out there, except mine have a handle. Those pretty vodka bottles even keep their designs. The bottles are only a place filler in my kiln.


petra kaiser -


Temps too high?

I found all the suggested high end temps too high for my kiln.  The first one I did the bottles were VERY flat.  The last bottle slump I did I stopped it at 1310 as the bottoms were already looking too flat - they actually turned out perfectly.  So the lesson I found is - every kiln is different - monitor the firing to see when it is actually done.


I still do not understand exactly what is meant by the term "ramp down" AFAP to annealing temp. To crash cool is the only way I see that "AFAP" is possible. Somebody please explain what I'm missing.


This means to do it as fast as the kiln will allow.  You do it by setting your kiln to afap/9999 or other means to shut the power off from the kiln until the target temperature is reached.

Stephen Richard

blogs at:   and

Bottle Slumping

What happens if I try slumping bottles without first removing their labels?  Also, suppose I use my regular mold slump program and just add a bottle as a place-filler?

The labels will fire off,

The labels will fire off, but I don't like the idea of smoke and fire in the kiln - my kiln builder said it  is not good for the coils.


petra kaiser - - Students Blog: http://www.myglassart.or

Removing labels/slumping bottles with molds

Oh, yes, I see.  Do you have suggestions about removing the labels easily?  Also, you mentioned using the bottles as place-fillers in your kiln.  If I use my regular mold-slumping program to slump molds, can I just place a bottle in there along with the molds and expect good results?

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