Glue for fused glass jewelry

Hi all,

Just wanted to see what you would recommend for an adhesive to glue the bails onto the back of my pendant. I have used E6000 in the past without much sucess. What would be your suggestion.

Thanks Carol


I have used E6000 with

I have used E6000 with success - but it needs to cure for at least 24 hours before the bond is permanent.

glue on bails

Have you tried to roughen both sides a bit and than clean them with alcohol befor you apply the glue? E 6000 seems to be the glue so far - but it is not a 100% guaranty this is the reason, why I favor glass pendants without any glue on bails. (but it seems I'm old fashioned minority in this field :) when you see all the bails on the market.

have fun

petra kaiser

I also have used E6000

I also have used E6000 successfully for quite some time.  I rough up both sides using a Dremel type grinder, clean and dry really well, put a fair amount of glue (enough for it to eek up a tiny bit around the edges of the bail), and then place them face down on a cookie sheet.  I put the sheet in the oven at 200° and cook for 2 hours.  They are left in the oven without being disturbed for 24 hours.  I have ocassionally had to take one off, but it gives me a devil of a time.

 I use E6000 the same way

 I use E6000 the same way Petra does for earrings, roughing up all surfaces the glue will be applied to, then letting it cure without touching or moving for 48 hours & rarely have the finding come off.  For pendants I'm now drilling & using pinch bails to avoid glue altogether.  


I use Triolyse.  Though I've only been fusing a few months, it has worked perfectly for me so far. 

Glass glue

 I came to glass via the Lapidary route. I used to make Opal triplets and Doublets. The glue I used was Epoxy 330. It holds very well, especially if the surfaces are not polished. It can be heated to accelerate the curing time, and most importantly, it cures "waterclear." I have used it on glass with great success. It would work perfectly for the bales. 

Thank you all, I never heard

Thank you all, I never heard of putting E6000 in the oven to cure, I will have to try that.



E6000 can be too old

While I haven't run into problems with E6000, I was told that it can "go bad" because it is too old. If that is true, then it is another possibility to consider.

We've pretty much quit using

We've pretty much quit using the glue-on method, also. We switched to drilled holes and pinch bails or grinding a channel. When I do use glue, I've found Zap a Gap to work better than the others I've tried.

Cindy R.

Glue for jewelry

Hi Carol,

I have used the UV glues before too and  didn't like the wait time.  I had a brilliant idea, well I thought it was at the time and have shared with other since, I could take a small length of No Days Glaze for stained glass and  glue my bale on using the heat gun as is recommended.  Placed the strip under the bale, heated it up and  held in place for a few seconds while it  cooled and then let the glass cool down.  Total time a couple of minutes and the bale is still in place almost a year later.  It is water proof and never goes bad with time, a small roll  is about the cost of the glue and will do  about 32 bales for every foot of  adhesive..  Works great for me!


"Think you can, think you can't, either way you are right."


E6000 vs. Triolyse

Like most of you, I have been using E6000 for quite some time without much trouble of the glass coming off the metal.  I roughen both surfaces with a dremel and then use a tooth pick to apply the glue to the bail and then the bail to the glass.  The glue has a tendancy to "skin over" so I generally remove that part before getting a small glob on the end of a tooth pick.  If I don't use that same tube for awhile, I do notice it being a bit stiffer to work with and generally will start a fresh tube.


When I first started fusing I tried using Triolyse mainly on smaller pieces (like earrings) and noticed that when I would do outdoor shows the jewelry would sometimes be in direct sunlight and the backings started coming off the back of the earrings.  It was very frustrating...  Maybe I wasn't applying it right?!  I stopped using Triolysis completely and just use E6000 for everything now and it does the trick for me!


Speaking of pinch bails - does anyone have any suggestions of a good source to purchase them?  Thanks!

Glue for Fused Jewelry

I've been using Marine Silicone for years now.   I accidently tested it's waterproofing by leaving a pendant in my pocket when I washed it, and yes, dried my pants in the dryer. I still wear the pendant no damage done.


E6000 or superglue

I still haven't found something I love all the time. I've had problems with both E6000 and superglue with bails pooping off pendents in heat. So I am figuring everyone thinks superglue is a bad idea as no one has mentioned it? I'll try the fresh E6000 roughed up the glass and bail and glue both sides and heat in oven method. Ofcourse I will then have to add $5 to the cost of pendents as thats a bunch of work just to glue a bail on. ;0)~


re LindsayDesigns ?

"Speaking of pinch bails - does anyone have any suggestions of a good source to purchase them?  Thanks!"


 I get my pinch bails from Heather Ferman in Florida, Rings & Things & Rio Grande.


I have used 527 with no problems so far.

pinch bails

Thanks Linda!  I appreciate the info!


I am another big fan of

I am another big fan of Epoxy 330, it's all I use anymore.  I have only had 1 customer bring 1 pendant back to re glue the bail.  Although she didn't admit to it I think it may have gone through the wash.  To the person who asked about super glue, no that's not a good option at all. 

Pinch Bails

I get them from Heather, Rio, Rings & Things, Thunderbird and (when I order a lot) Fire Mountain.

Cindy R.

pinch bails

I use the pinch bails with a loop of wire. Insert a loop of wire into pendant before you fire. Clean up wire and add pinch bail. Saves drilling a hole.Bev

not much luck with e6000

I have used system 330 and it seems to work really well. I have started to cure it in a studio toatser oven and that seems to make a great bond between the glass and bail. and I agree with another member roughen both glass and bail.

Shoozles Fused Glass Goodness

Wear Your Art- My  Blog

glue-continuing problem

I've tried sooo many glues!  JB weld, grey and ugly has held up for years.  I don't feel its a quality product if there is a chance the bail will come unglued.  I've heard from glass jewelry artists that have 10 years experience that E6000 is good, it must be fresh.  Thw 2 part glues must be used before they skin over or get stiff or they won't hold. Drilling holes is a very good option. I embed fine silver for pendants and earrings but I still wish there was a fail proff glue for post earrings!  good luck!  ( Always use glues with good venilation!!)

I tried to enter a link to my blog, so you could see the bails, if it dosn't work its:   http;//  enter "glass" in upper left search area so you don't have to look at the other art.


Pinch Bail Source

Hippos Eating Aligators:

Outstanding quality findings designed by someone who uses them herself.

Helios Kiln Glass Studio



I prefer using adhesives to epoxies (less messy). However, I like BOTH E6000 & triolyse. But I'm cheap and E6000 is, too ;-) Seriously - the secrets to good adherence: absolutely rough up the surfaces and clean them well. You want to COVER the area of the bail, but only THINLY. A good way is to put a dab on the bail, squeeze it onto the cabochon. Some, but not a lot, should spill over the edges. If a lot comes out, you need to use less. The nice thing about E6000 is that once you give it plenty of time to cure (48 hours is good), then you can clean up the excess with a craft knife. With regard to waiting time - if you want a good bond, it needs to cure. Consider this  - Hextal (sp?) glass laminating glue takes over a week to cure!!

If you are using triolyse - remember - give the solvent a good 30 seconds to evaporate after application before sticking the adhesive side to the solvent side. Again - a little, but not much, should squeeze out from the bail if you are using the right amount. After curing, it cleans up nicely with alcohol. Triolyse yellows - don't use it on transparent pieces.


Have a great day!


 ~ KPT


I agree, E 6000 is cheap and

I agree, E 6000 is cheap and works in most cases. You need so little that over time we had problems with it drying out. Now we keep it always in a zip lock bag and it stays workable for much longer.

petra kaiser -


I didn't have much luck with

I didn't have much luck with E6000, so I tried Triolyse and it has been working great! 

It works best when you put the bail on the glass piece exactly where you want it and don't move it around at all.



Click here to see my Fused Glass Art:

Click here to read my Glass Art Blog:


I use 5 min, two part,

I use 5 min, two part, Devcon Epoxy. It is a bit brittle - so if the piece gets dropped from a height the bail may pop off. But, I've found it more secure than the E6000.

As for grinding the bails - make sure you don't do this where you will be working on glass. The flecks of silver will leave mysterious brown spots on French Vanilla.





Devcon 2-part epoxy works great if you rough up the glass back.


I have tried just about everything. I used a two part epoxy for a long time, until I was packing for a show and things started popping off. We spent all night cleaning and glueing. I used E600, after a couplke of hours I heat set evrything for 30 minuets at 200.

I have been using it with a 95% success rate since then.  I hvae ocassionaly had a bail and cab that just don't seem to want to be together.

We recently moved from Virginia to Hawaii, and about 80% of all the bails came off or where lose. The container they where in was the only one to have any damage, something got wet and as it was July every thing was very hot, that is the only think I can think of that mad them pop.

I cleaned, glued and cured with no problems.

Hi Caroli was having

Hi Carol

i was having trouble with e6000 until I started placing a small amount on each piece to be joined, let it get tacky (sometimes 10 minutes) then join together.   It takes at least 24 hours to cure but I've not had any trouble in the 42 degrees Celsius & humidity that we get here.   I also tried to separate a piece I no longer liked from a bail & couldn't.   Hope that helps


ps just realised how old the original post was, so hopefully you have it sorted by now!

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