Step 1: What You'll Need

The materials required for Fossil Vitra will be readily available in most kilnformed glass studios.  A broad palette of colored powders is extremely useful here so we’ll be using Bullseye compatible glass. You will need:

•  Plant leaves.  Leaves that lay flat are ideal.  Fern leaves provide great results.   Plant leaves on branches that are no more than 1/8th inch thick also work very well.

•  Sheet glass.  For this tutorial we will be working with an 8 inch circle of black glass and making a simple bowl.

•  Glass powders.  A combination of opaque and transparent powders will be used to allow for depth.  We are going to stay true to the natural palette for leaves and use mostly greens and browns.

•  Fiber paper (1/8th inch thick).   This needs to be slightly larger than the piece of sheet glass.

•  Hairspray – the cheaper the better.  White Rain and Aqua Net both work great.  Do yourself a favor and stick to the unscented.

•  Powder sifter(s).  It is good to have a couple different sizes.

 

Fossil Vitra Materials

 

Any time you use glass powders you will want to protect your lungs. An appropriate respirator and HEPA vacuum are critical.  Remember that the finest glass particulates can hang in the air for hours.  Do not assume you can take off your respirator the moment you put your powders away.

In the next step, we will prepare the fiber and leaves.

Fossil Vitra tutorial

Hi Paul, Good morning.  I have been wanting to fuse local leaves for a long time and really am excited about this tutorial. I have questions about safety, materials, finishing and use of the finished piece.

1.  Safety/materials: My kiln is in my house, because it is too humid here to have it in a garage (& no basements at sea level!) 

 - Should I be concerned about using glass powders in my house? 

 - Could you advise me or refer to information about respirators and where to get one? 

 - Are the powders and sifters the same as enamel sifters? and one more: can I use shelf paper instead of fiber paper?   I do not have a local glass fusing supply store, so I need an organized shopping list...

2. Use / safety: I notice you use only one layer of glass. After fusing, I am wondering if I could turn over the finished piece and fused a clear piece of glass on top of the design, resulting in a smooth surface?  I have a number of bowls with a smooth interior and textured exterior (safe for food, easy to clean, can see design beneath it).  I am wondering if I would get bubbles if I cap it with clear glass, leaf side up? Do you think it is necessary for food use?

I know I've sent a lot of questions. Thanks for your patience and help.  Feel free to post response if it seems useful to others. 

Dvora

I wanted to know if you can

I wanted to know if you can add 2 layers of glass during the intial fuse.Example tekta, black,then plants.Or is it better to fire single base glass (black) with powder coated plant material first, than after powders are completely fused,refired with another layer? If so would it be better to put Tekta on  top or bottom of your leaf side? If i put Tekta on bottom and refired to a full fuse (with leaves facing up) would it effect the image of the leaves?  Just curious because you are only using a single piece of glass in the tutorial

For His Glory

Ann Reed

Hello fellow fuser did you

Hello fellow fuser did you ever try this technique? What was your results? I was curious about the second layer of glass too.

For His Glory

Ann Reed

Paint

Hi Paul, just a small question, the paint you use for the leaves are these the normal glasspaint powders?

Or is it very small frit?

thank you, all the best Jose McVean

Comment viewing options

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.